The recent uproar over food quality at the Olympic Village in Saint-Denis has ignited a necessary discussion on how traditional foods and methods are valued in Europe. Gymnastics star Simone Biles’s comments on the meals served to athletes bring to light a broader issue that extends beyond the Olympics. “It’s not really French cuisine in the village. Ours is a bit healthier…” she remarked, while her teammate Hezly Rivera added, “I don’t think the food is very good here. French cuisine is supposed to be good… but what we have here, I’m not sure it’s the best.”
A Missed Opportunity to Showcase French Cuisine
France, known globally for its exceptional culinary heritage, seems to have missed an opportunity to highlight this at the Olympic Village. Despite the efforts of several chefs and the provision of 550 different menus for 206 nations, the food quality has not met the athletes’ expectations. The image of Biles eating an industrially produced pain au chocolat starkly contrasts with the fresh, artisanal pastries France is famous for.
This criticism isn’t isolated. Prior to Biles’s remarks, issues were raised about the quantity of food, prompting the British delegation to bring their own chef to address meat and egg rationing problems. Additionally, the system of serving food, which required athletes to be served individually rather than self-serving, led to inefficiencies and frustration. Moreover, the Paris 2024 Olympics aimed for a climate-conscious menu, emphasizing local, seasonal, and plant-based foods to reduce the carbon footprint. However, this approach has faced backlash from athletes demanding more meat options to meet their nutritional needs. Sodexo Live!, the catering company for the Games, had to increase the quantities of eggs and grilled meats following complaints from athletes, highlighting a disconnect between the organizers’ environmental goals and the practical needs of the athletes
Reflecting a Larger Problem
The situation at the Olympics is emblematic of a broader issue where real, nutritious food is often sidelined in favor of convenience and cost-cutting measures. This is mirrored in the conversation in Brussels around the front-of-pack (FOP) harmonization with labeling systems like Nutri-Score that has faced substantial criticism. While Nutri-Score aims to simplify nutritional information for consumers, it misrepresents the nutritional value of traditional foods. Nutri-Score also oversimplifies nutrition, leading to misleading classifications. For example, healthy traditional foods might be unfairly rated lower than processed options, causing confusion and influencing consumer choices detrimentally.
The Broader Issue: Policy Missteps
In Brussels, the proposal of the harmonization of FOP labeling, particularly Nutri-Score, highlights a significant disconnect in policy priorities. Research has indicated biases in studies supporting Nutri-Score, often linked to its developers. Portugal’s recent reversal on adopting Nutri-Score illustrates growing discontent, with the new government pointing out the lack of consultation with national food authorities and the potential for consumer confusion. The Portuguese Directorate-General for Food and Veterinary (DGAV) has expressed concerns that Nutri-Score might misrepresent the nutritional value of traditional Portuguese foods—a sentiment echoed by other member states.
Nutri-Score’s Flaws
Carole Delga, President of the Occitanie region in France, has called for the exclusion of Nutri-Score, arguing it inaccurately assesses traditional products. Delga’s concerns highlight that Nutri-Score often fails to capture the true nutritional value of traditional foods, favoring processed items instead. With Hungary holding the EU Council Presidency, there is a push for a more nuanced approach that balances consumer information with the preservation of traditional practices and economic stability.
Re-evaluating Food Policy Priorities
The conversation around Nutri-Score detracts from more critical issues related to food sustainability and heritage. Individual Member States continue to reject Nutri-Score, favoring approaches that respect culinary traditions and provide clearer guidance to consumers.
Recent comments by French Minister of Agriculture Marc Fesneau emphasize the strategic importance of food sovereignty. Given global geopolitical tensions and environmental concerns, Europe must prioritize reducing dependency on imports and ensuring self-sufficiency in food production. Fesneau’s remarks highlight the need for a strategic approach to food policy, balancing innovation with the preservation of traditional agricultural practices.
Prioritizing Heritage and Quality
The recent criticisms of food quality at the Olympic Village as well as discussions over Nutri-Score highlight the need for a shift in policy focus. Europe must prioritize meaningful food policies that address the real needs of consumers and producers, fostering a sustainable and culturally rich future.
While labeling systems like Nutri-Score aim to simplify nutrition information, they do the opposite by oversimplifying and misleading. Europe must refocus on policies that truly enhance food quality and honor culinary traditions, ensuring that heritage foods are valued and accessible. This shift is essential for fostering a sustainable and vibrant food culture that celebrates and preserves the diverse culinary heritage of Europe.
Policymakers must ensure that the food provided, whether at international events or in daily consumption, is of high quality, nutritionally adequate, and culturally representative. This approach not only supports peak performance for athletes but also upholds the rich culinary heritage that defines Europe.
